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Lock Lubrication: What to Use

Dry lubricants, how little to use, and when a stiff lock needs more than a spray.

Toronto & the GTAFamily ownedMobile service
Lock Lubrication: What to UseToronto & the GTA
Deadbolt shown with its cylinder and extended bolt
01

The wrong spray in the right place

When a lock gets stiff, most people reach for whatever is in the cupboard: a general-purpose spray oil, cooking oil, petroleum jelly, or a squirt of something from the garage. It works, for a while. Then, weeks or months later, the lock is stiffer than before, because the oil has collected dust and grit and turned into a paste inside the cylinder.

Lubricating a lock properly is simple and cheap. It just means choosing the right product, using very little of it, and putting it where it does some good.

02

Why locks need lubrication

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A pin tumbler cylinder relies on small pins sliding freely in tight holes, with springs pushing them back down. A deadbolt relies on the bolt sliding smoothly in its housing and the cam turning freely. Over time, moisture, dust, pollen, road salt and metal wear all add friction. The key starts to feel rough, the lock needs a jiggle, and eventually the key will not turn or will not come out.

Exterior locks in the GTA take a particular beating: summer humidity, winter freeze-thaw cycles, road salt carried on hands and keys, and dust from construction and traffic.

03

What to use

01

Dry graphite. Fine powdered graphite is the traditional lock lubricant. It does not attract dust and works well in cold weather. It can be messy and can stain light-coloured door finishes, so use a puffer bottle and a cloth.

02

Dry PTFE lubricants. Sprays that go on wet and dry to a thin film of PTFE. They reach the pins easily, leave little residue and do not collect dirt the way oils do. Many locksmiths use them for cylinders.

03

Lock-specific lubricants. Products made specifically for locks, often a light carrier with dry lubricant particles, sometimes with a de-icing component. They are designed to clean and lubricate the cylinder without gumming.

04

Light grease, sparingly, for bolts and latches. The sliding bolt and latch, as opposed to the cylinder, can benefit from a small amount of a light grease or a dry lubricant on the bolt surfaces. Keep it out of the keyway.

Hands working on a lever lock fitted to a white door
04

What to avoid

General-purpose spray oils as the only lubricant. Many people use them, and they do loosen a sticky lock, but they are often more solvent than lubricant and leave an oily film that attracts dirt. If one has been used, follow up with a proper dry lubricant once the lock is working again.

Cooking oils and petroleum jelly. These gum up and go rancid or stiff, especially in the cold.

Heavy grease in the keyway. It traps grit and stops pins dropping cleanly.

Too much of anything. A little goes a long way. Excess product drips, stains the door and collects dust.

05

How to lubricate a door lock

  1. Clean first if the lock is dirty. A blast of compressed air into the keyway clears loose dust. A lock cleaner or the carrier in a lock lubricant can flush out old gummy oil.
  2. Apply a small amount into the keyway. One short spray or a small puff of graphite.
  3. Work the key. Insert the key and turn it fully several times in both directions, then remove and reinsert it. This spreads the lubricant along the pins.
  4. Wipe the key. Remove excess from the key so it does not carry residue into the lock next time.
  5. Lubricate the bolt and latch. With the door open, extend the bolt and apply a small amount to its surfaces. Work the bolt several times.
  6. Check the strike. A bolt that rubs on the strike is a door alignment issue, not a lubrication issue.

For most exterior door locks, once or twice a year is enough, ideally in autumn before the cold and again in spring after the salt and grit of winter. Interior locks rarely need attention. Locks exposed to the weather, such as gate locks, garage side doors and padlocks, may need it more often. Adding lubrication to an annual door and lock maintenance check keeps it from being forgotten.

07

Winter and frozen locks

01

A lock that freezes is usually wet inside. Lubricating with a dry product in the autumn helps keep water from collecting, and lock de-icers that include a lubricant can free a frozen lock and protect it at the same time. Never pour hot water into a lock; it refreezes deeper inside. Moisture is the root of most frozen door locks in winter, so keeping it out matters more than thawing it.

08

Smart locks and electronic locks

Electronic deadbolts have a motor driving the bolt. A dry, clean bolt and a well-aligned strike reduce the load on the motor and extend battery life. Do not spray lubricant into the electronic housing or keypad. Lubricate only the key cylinder, if there is one, and the bolt surfaces, following the manufacturer's guidance.

09

Padlocks, gate locks and outdoor hardware

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Padlocks and gate locks live outdoors. Lubricate the keyway and the shackle holes, work the shackle several times, and wipe off the excess. For padlocks that sit in the rain, a weather cover or a padlock designed for outdoor use lasts much longer. Hasps need the same care, and shed and outbuilding padlocks last longer with it.

10

When lubrication will not help

01

If a lock is still stiff after cleaning and lubricating, the problem is something else:

02
  • the door has moved and the bolt binds in the strike
  • the key is worn or badly cut
  • pins or springs inside are worn or broken
  • the lock has been damaged
03

A key that still sticks after lubrication is worth looking at more closely, as with a key stuck in the lock. Spraying more lubricant into a worn or misaligned lock only hides the problem until it fails.

11

Locks that are never used

Locks that are rarely operated, such as a basement door, a side door, a gate or a window lock, stiffen more than locks used every day. Operating them once a month keeps the pins and bolt moving. When lubricating the house in autumn, include these locks, and turn each one fully a few times.

12

Commercial locks

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Busy commercial locks, especially on storefronts, rear doors and exit devices, see far more cycles than a house lock and accumulate more grit. Exit devices have their own lubrication points on the latch and the mechanism, and closers should not be lubricated at all except as the manufacturer directs. A regular service visit that covers the locks, exit devices and closers on every door is more effective than ad hoc spraying, and it catches wear before a door fails.

13

Window locks and sliding door locks

01

Window sash locks and sliding patio door locks benefit from the same dry lubricant on their moving parts. For sliding doors, the track and rollers also need cleaning: a door that drags puts strain on the lock and makes it harder to engage. Vacuum the track, wipe it clean and apply a small amount of dry lubricant to the rollers if the manufacturer recommends it.

14

Keys and key rings

Keys pick up dirt from pockets and bags and carry it into the lock. Wiping keys occasionally helps. Heavy key rings hanging from a key in the lock wear the cylinder and the key over time. Keep the key ring for daily locks light, and do not leave keys hanging in the door.

15

Signs a lock needs more than lubrication

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  • the key must be jiggled or held at a particular angle
  • the key turns only partway
  • the bolt needs the door pushed or pulled to move
  • grinding or clicking inside the cylinder
  • the key is visibly worn, bent or rounded

These point to wear, damage or alignment. A fresh key, a rekey or re-pin, or a strike adjustment usually solves them, and continued use of a failing lock risks a broken key.

16

Products to keep at home

01

A small lock lubricant or a tube of dry graphite, a lock de-icer for winter and a soft cloth are enough for most households. Keep them together with a note of when the locks were last done, so the next autumn service is not forgotten.

17

Garage doors, gates and mailboxes

Overhead garage door locks, gate latches and mailbox cam locks all live outside and stiffen in the same way. A puff of dry lubricant into each keyway in the autumn, and a few turns of the key, keeps them working through the winter. Mailboxes in apartment buildings belong to the building, so report a stiff mailbox lock to management rather than spraying it.

18

Children's and seniors' keys

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A lock that needs force to turn is hard for children and older family members. Keeping locks well lubricated and doors well adjusted makes them easier for everyone, and it often removes the need for anyone to struggle with a stiff key in the cold.

19

Lubricating after rekeying or repair

01

When a cylinder is rekeyed or repaired, the locksmith usually cleans and lubricates it before refitting. Ask what was used, so you can top up with the same type of product in future. Mixing an oily spray into a cylinder that was cleaned and treated with a dry lubricant undoes much of that work.

20

Arranging a lock service

If your locks are stiff, sticky or noisy and you would rather have them looked at, tell us which doors and what the key is doing. We can clean and lubricate cylinders and bolts with lock-appropriate products, adjust doors and strikes, cut fresh keys and replace worn cylinders. That work is part of our lock repair service.

Questions about lock lubrication: what to use

A dry lubricant such as powdered graphite or a dry PTFE spray, or a product made specifically for locks. These lubricate without attracting dust.

What is the right lubricant for a door lock?

A dry lubricant such as powdered graphite or a dry PTFE spray, or a product made specifically for locks. These lubricate without attracting dust.

Can I use a general-purpose spray oil on my lock?

It may loosen a sticky lock, but it tends to attract dirt and gum up the pins later. If you have used one, follow up with a dry lubricant once the lock works again.

How often should I lubricate my locks?

Once or twice a year for most exterior locks, ideally in autumn and spring. Locks exposed to weather, such as padlocks and gate locks, may need it more often.

How much lubricant should I use?

Very little: one short spray or a small puff of graphite. Then work the key several times. Excess product drips and collects dust.

Will lubricant fix a frozen lock?

A lock de-icer with a lubricant can free a frozen lock. Lubricating in autumn helps keep water out. Never pour hot water into a lock.

Can I spray lubricant into my smart lock?

Not into the electronics or keypad. Lubricate only the key cylinder, if there is one, and the bolt surfaces.

Should I use grease on the bolt?

A small amount of light grease or dry lubricant on the bolt and latch surfaces is fine. Keep grease out of the keyway.

My lock is still stiff after lubricating. What now?

The cause is probably mechanical: a binding bolt, a worn key or worn pins. The door may need adjusting, or the key or cylinder replacing.

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Hands working on a lever lock fitted to a white door

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